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Sunrise at Moore Haven

What it’s like to hike the Big O Hike

Nine days of walking around Lake Okeechobee is a unique experience that can change your life. Learn what it felt like to join the Big O Hike in these three sets of journals to the day-by-day journey.

Article by Sandra Friend (June 11, 2019)

In 2002, I arrived at Lake Okeechobee for the Big O Hike in November, not knowing exactly what to expect. My good friend Sunny Piskura had bugged me for years to join her on the annual walk around the lake, and I thought she was crazy.

Then I got two book contracts for which I needed to walk around the lake to write about it – Along the Florida Trail and the Florida Trail Official Guide.

Okeechobee cinema
Phyllis, Linda, and Paul at the 2002 Big O Hike. We spent one afternoon at the movies in Okeechobee watching the newest Harry Potter flick.

So I made plans. But unbeknownst to all of us, Sunny’s cancer returned and two months before the big hike, she died. It was a shock for many of us, especially to be present on the opening day and to watch her granddaughters and her fiance Paul spread her ashes on the dike at South Bay.

That year, that hike, I made fast friends, folks I’ve hiked and traveled with all over the country, folks who I count as some of my closest people in my life.

I came to love the Big O Hike, all 9 days around our massive Lake Okeechobee, its subtleties and its splendor. And its people.

Sandra Friend and friends
A new cast of hiking partners entered my life thanks to the Big O Hike.

I returned again and did the whole thing twice, then life took me in other directions and I only made it back for work reasons, or to do the kickoff and head home again.

JK at the 2011 Big O Hike
Little did I know I’d get married to this cute guy I met at the Big O Hike

The Big O Hike has had a huge impact on my life. It was at the hike in 2011 that I met John, and we became a couple in 2012. We’ve been hiking and writing and traveling together ever since. Despite having a handful of mutual friends, we never met before we both showed up for the Big O Hike that year.

Read my journal entries and plan to join the next Big O Hike! You’ll find all the logistical details you need in the Big O Hike section.

2007 Journal Entries

2011 Journal Entries

2012 Journal Entries


The 2002 Big O Hike

While I didn’t write about the hike online, I did write a chapter in Along the Florida Trail about the experience, and took quite a few photos. Photographer Bart Smith joined us for a portion of the hike as well.

Hikers Graveyard
New hike leader Paul Cummings leaves some of Sunny’s ashes at the Hiker’s Graveyard in Lakeport
Bill Detzner, 2002
Bill Detzner at the 2002 Big O Hike, foot repair at the ready
Blister clinic
Lou’s blister clinic at the 2002 Big O Hike.

2002 Big O Hike
My crew of new friends who walked around Lake Okeechobee with me in 2002

The 2007 Big O Hike

In 2007, I vowed I’d be there for the whole nine days, and I did it unplugged. I’d thought of blogging from the trail, then thought better of it.

It was the most relaxing week of hiking I’ve ever had, and it flooded back reminders of why, despite the assumptions people make that “walking on a dike is boring, the view never changes” this hike is anything BUT boring.

Never pass a restroom on the Big O Hike! Day One: Kickoff! Day 1 of the 2007 Big O Hike around Lake Okeechobee starts off with sunshine and a walk to Port Mayaca along the glistening lake waters.
Marshes near Chauncey Bay Day Two: On Vacation Discovering that the Big O Hike can be a vacation immersed in the beauty of Lake Okeechobee, I take the time to slow down and enjoy nature at my own pace.
Sandhill cranes near Okeechobee Day Three: Hiking with Cliff On the third day of the 2007 Big O Hike, I walk with Cliff Moody, the oldest man to ever complete the walk around Lake Okeechobee.
Rosie and Gordon at Buckhead Ridge Day Four: Halfback Day four of the 2007 Big O Hike evolved into a relaxed walk from the halfway point back into the campground in Okeechobee, greeting hikers along the way.
Sunrise over Eagle Bay Okeechobee Day Five: In the pink On Day Five of the 2007 Big O Hike, sunrise over Eagle Bay was the event of the morning before a move to our southerly campground in the afternoon.
Sunrise over foggy marshes Sunrise and Fog on Lake Okeechobee Sunrise unfolded ever-so-slowly through the fog-shrouded marshes at Moore Haven, making for the perfect start of Thanksgiving Day during the 2007 Big O Hike.
Powerboat on the Rim Canal in Clewiston Day Seven: Surreal Day seven of the 2007 Big O Hike is a counterpoint to the previous day, entertaining family with the highlights of Clewiston.
Walking by Torrey Island on the Florida Trail Day Eight: Torrey Island After a moonlight walk the night before with fellow hikers, I arise early for a walk to Torrey Island on Day 8 of the Big O Hike.
Sunrise on Pelican Bay Day Nine: Pelican Bay The final day of the 2007 Big O Hike sweeps us around the curve of Pelican Bay into Pahokee as the details sink deep into my memories.
Big O Pahokee Back from the Big O During the 2007 Big O Hike, Ocala resident Cliff Moody set a new bar for future hikers by walking all the way around Lake Okeechobee at age 90.

Wagonmaster Mike at the Big O Hike
Wagonmaster Mike at the Big O Hike, 2010

The 2011 Big O Hike

I missed all but the first day of the 2010 Big O Hike due to a move, and I didn’t want to miss the whole hike again in 2011.

I pitched an article idea to an editor and picked up enough work to underwrite the cost of the nine days around the lake plus the week and a half away from my normal routine.

Like 2007, I planned to be there for the entire hike. What I didn’t plan on was meeting a fellow who I’d fall in love with.

Pahokee Pounding Pavement in Pahokee For the first time since the Big O Hike started in 1992, the Army Corps of Engineers denied our hikers access to the dike. So to kick off the 2011 Big O Hike, it's a roadwalk through Pahokee.
Dawn at Port Mayaca Sweep of Blue At Port Mayaca, the shape of Lake Okeechobee is obvious, even at dawn, the curvature extending off to the horizon line at the only place in Florida with horizon to horizon views.
Nubbin Slough 3x3x3 Okeechobee's history runs deep. Today's walk slips past many ghosts, of fish camps and fish canneries, an early Florida toll road and more shoreline where the lake waters once lapped.
Sugar Cane field aflame Braising Cane As I hike the Florida Trail past Moore Haven, a sugar cane field bursts out in flame after my discussion with my friend Steve, a sign from above that he's along for the walk.
Misty morning on Lake Okeechobee O Okeechobee It's a tradition at the Big O Hike to share your talent at Thanksgiving Day dinner. Mine is a poem commemorating the hike and our friends who've gone before us.
Florida Trail Moore Haven Turtle Time In hiking and in life, there are tortoises and hares. On the Big O Hike, the Loxahatchee - "River of the Turtles" - Chapter participants walk at all speeds, but the speediest of our hikers are known as rabbits.
Florida Trail Clewiston rest stop Everglades, Interrupted When you're traveling at the speed of feet, it's easy to spend hours reflecting on the Everglades that once was, the vast wilds erased by the agro-industrial complex that brought sugar cane to Lake Okeechobee.
Hikers at dawn on the Big O Hike Out of Time Breaking away from the everyday for nine days to immerse yourself in the goal of walking around Lake Okeechobee brings on a certain sense of calm, a time out of the normal pace of time, despite time framing each day.
Big O Hikers Friends Along the Way What makes the Big O Hike stand out from all other hiking events is the friendships that you make - good, deep friendships born out of traveling together at a walking pace for nine days around Lake Okeechobee.


The 2012 Big O Hike

After coming back from the Appalachian Trail without accomplishing our goal of hiking the whole thing, John and I set a goal of creating a new Florida Trail Guide.

So the Big O Hike was in our plans for the fall, as we’d visit all the towns along it and hike places we hadn’t yet seen.

This hike also enabled him to finish one complete circle around Lake Okeechobee. But this hike didn’t go as planned, either.

Notes From a Small Space Although we're writing a Florida Trail hiking guide, we decided to come to the Big O Hike since we met here last year, and it's time to try out the new TravLite!
Chauncey Bay Okeechobee Aloft It isn't rare for winds to streak across the surface of Lake Okeechobee, picking up speed as they travel. But some mornings are windier than others, and this was one of them.
Live oaks at 4Es Simple Beauty A moment of Deja vu: discovering a scene that Bart Smith had captured in Along the Florida Trail at the 4Es trailhead.
Big O Hike 2012 Redirection When a sudden dental problem threw our hiking plans awry, we kicked into research mode and went wandering around Lake Okeechobee in search of information for our new guidebook.
Seminole Reflections Returning to the Big Cypress Seminole Reservation for the first time in a decade, I remember my visits of the past and celebrate the present with John with a panther sighting.
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Sandra Friend
Sandra Friend
Author of 45 books, Sandra Friend established FloridaHikes.com in 2006 to expand on the field research she'd completed for her first six hiking guides. She has been honored with lifetime achievement awards from the Florida Trail Association and the Florida Outdoor Writers Association.
Sandra Friend
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Category: Articles, Events, Florida Trail, Hiking, HistoryTag: Big O Hike, Florida Trail, Florida Trail Association

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