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Coastal marsh at St. Marks NWR

Florida Trail, Big Bend

Crossing rural farms and forests, this 116 mile segment of the Florida Trail reveals the secrets of the Aucilla River before tracing the Gulf coastline at St. Marks National Wildlife Refuge.

Dowling Park to Panacea (30.297199, -83.245003)   116.2 miles   Florida National Scenic Trail
 

116.2 miles. Leaving the Suwannee River northbound, there is now a gap in the Florida Trail between the Suwannee and the Aucilla River. What was once a ramble through private timber lands is now off limits.

So the Big Bend section now starts with a 48.4 mile roadwalk through rural North Florida, mostly on backroads.

Walking this rural route will have you enjoying the company of livestock, mulling over the beauty of roadside cypress swamps, spotting wildlife, and meeting friendly residents along the way.

When you finally reach the woods again, the Aucilla section feels primordial, with its mysterious river that sinks underground to flow between sinkholes before it rises again near Goose Pasture.

The cornerstone of the Big Bend section, however, is St. Marks National Wildlife Refuge, from which you can view the sweep of the Big Bend coast.

Through St. Marks, the trail follows old tramways and the fringe of salt marshes, where you can catch a glimpse of the Gulf of Mexico.

West of the St. Marks River crossing, the Florida Trail has many beauty spots through more protected coastline in the refuge, in habitats which tend to be a bit soggy most of the time.


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Hiking Tips

FLOODING can be a major problem along the Aucilla River and Aucilla Sinks. Check National Weather Service flood gauge.

It is not safe to hike along the Aucilla River when it is in flood stage, as floodwaters rising from underground obscure deep sinkholes and ravines along the trail.

Check water levels and flood notices online or call Suwannee River Water Management District for updates at 386-362-1001

When walking the roads between the Suwannee and Aucilla Rivers, walk against traffic and wear high-visibility clothing like a safety vest.

Most of the churches along the route allow hikers to stop and get tap water. Some of the churches (Midway Baptist Church in Madison is one) allow hikers to camp on their property.

Respect private property signs along the Suwannee to Aucilla roadwalk and do not camp where “Posted” signs are posted on private land.

Wear bright orange or other high-visibility clothing when hiking between Sirmans and Aucilla as there are many private hunting leases flanking the backroads.

Wear a bright orange shirt or vest during hunting seasons in Aucilla WMA and at St. Marks National Wildlife Refuge.

Camping permits are required to backpack through St. Marks NWR and camp at the designated primitive campsites. Find current permit details here.

At St. Marks National Wildlife Refuge, tides affect your water sources. A high tide can push salt water into fresh water at places like the Pinhook River and Shepherd Spring.

Water along the dikes is generally salty. Plan where you are going to get your next water.

Alligators are everywhere along the dikes in St. Marks. If you’re hiking with a dog, keep it well away from the water.

It can take some time to flag down a boat to cross the St. Marks River. Don’t try to swim it. It is deep, swift, and tidal.

You can also call Shields Marina or Shell Island Fish Camp for a ride.

Although the east side of St. Marks is mostly on dikes and forest roads, the west side has a lot of muddy walking in the woods. Be prepared for sticky, gloppy mud west of the Wakulla River until Marsh Point.

Take advantage of the town of St. Marks as a zero day. There is a small store, motel rooms and cabins at Shell Island Fish Camp, a B&B near the restaurants, a laundromat, and a riverside tiki bar.


Trail Map

Florida Trail Big Bend section map


Trail Segments

Details about all segments of the Florida Trail in this section are in The Florida Trail Guide and app. The hikes below include some of our favorites for this section.

Each is described from the perspective of a day hiker, noting landmarks, water, and campsites along the way. Not all are oriented from south to north, but this is the order they are in northbound.

Aucilla Rapids Florida Trail, Aucilla River 9 miles. Endearingly scenic, surprisingly rugged, unlike any other piece of the Florida Trail, this trek along the Aucilla River showcases some of Florida's top natural features.
Aucilla Sinks Florida Trail, Aucilla Sinks 4.4 miles. Winding through a geologically weird and archaeologically significant part of Florida, the most fascinating segment of the Florida Trail is the Aucilla Sinks
Expansive view of needlerush marsh on Gulf of Mexico Florida Trail, Apalachee Bay 14.3 miles. Hugging the Big Bend coastline, this hike through Aucilla WMA and St. Marks NWR offers some of the most breathtaking panoramas you'll find along the Florida Trail, and a profusion of wildlife.
Rounded spring surrounded by forest Florida Trail, Shepherd Spring Visit a pair of natural treasures along the Forgotten Coast on this 6 mile hike along the Florida Trail within St. Marks National Wildlife Refuge.

Side Trails

Trails that interconnect with and sometimes share a portion of the Florida Trail route.

St Marks NWR Forest Road 200 St. Marks Coastal Loop Using the Tallahassee-St Marks Trail, the Coastal Trail, and the Florida Trail, ride a scenic 22-mile loop between the St. Marks and Wakulla River floodplains along the Big Bend.

Public Lands

Some of the public lands this section of the Florida Trail crosses.

Lighthouse with palm trees and white sand beach on marsh St. Marks National Wildlife Refuge Stretching across 86,000 acres in Florida's Big Bend, St. Marks National Wildlife Refuge protects one of Florida's longest wild shorelines, more than 43 miles in three counties.

Connections

These sections of the Florida Trail adjoin the Big Bend to its north and south.

Words Florida Trail Suwannee overlaid on view of river through moss-draped live oaks. Florida Trail, Suwannee For 78 miles along the Suwannee River, the Florida Trail clings to bluffs and scrambles through ravines for physical challenges and great scenery.
Words Florida Trail Apalachicola over a gum swamp Florida Trail, Apalachicola In Florida’s largest national forest, this 78 mile segment of the Florida Trail through the Apalachicola means soggy feet and spectacular botanical diversity south of Tallahassee.

Suggested Articles

Planning tools for the Florida Trail Plan your Florida Trail Hike Thinking of section hiking, thru-hiking, or simply backpacking the Florida Trail? Plan ahead with this step-by-step guide of what to do in advance of hiking the Florida Trail.
Hiking trail with backpack in foreground Florida Trail Backpacking Backpackers will appreciate the many places the Florida Trail provides a pleasant overnight, three-day-weekend, or multi-day hiking experience to escape to the outdoors.
Woman with daypack walking along ocean Section Hiking the Florida Trail Section hiking the Florida National Scenic Trail provides some logistical challenges, but a sense of satisfaction in being able to complete an 1,100-mile walk across Florida at your own pace.
Tents pitched in a clearing in a tropical forest Thru Hike the Florida Trail A thru-hike in Florida takes sixty to ninety days across a surprising diversity of landscapes not found on other long distance trails in the United States.
Best Hikes on the Florida Trail Explore our picks for the best scenic hikes along the Florida Trail. We've hiked the entire trail: these are pieces of the trail we'd be happy to hike again and again.

Recent Articles

Florida Trail closure notice Closing the Florida Trail Big Bend Gap (4/28/2017) How do we close the gap in the Florida Trail between the Suwannee and Aucilla Rivers? Learn the history of how the trail was developed and routed through that region, the discussions going on now, and a potential solution for future protection of the trail corridor.
Marsh Point Hiking to Marsh Point (9/17/2015) At St. Marks NWR, Marsh Point captures the essence of Florida's Gulf coastline. But hikers are missing it because the bridges are out.

More Articles Interactive Map Interactive App

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Sandra Friend & John Keatley
Sandra Friend & John Keatley
Articles jointly researched, written, and photographed by Sandra Friend & John Keatley, authors and publishers of FloridaHikes.com.
Sandra Friend & John Keatley
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Category: Backpacking, Day Hikes, Florida Trail, Hikes, Northwest Florida, TrailsTag: Crawfordville, Dowling Park, Florida Trail, Locations, Madison, Monticello, Perry, Sopchoppy, St. Marks, St. Marks National Wildlife Refuge, Tallahassee

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Our comprehensive trail logistics presented on offline maps:

Florida National Scenic Trail (1,500 miles)
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Our Florida Guidebooks

We’ve written guidebooks to Florida’s outdoors for over twenty years. These help you plan a hike on the Florida Trail.


The Florida Trail Guide

Book cover of forest with diminutive hiker among tall trees

FIND A TRAIL OR PARK

METROS: Bradenton. Clearwater. Crestview. Daytona Beach. Destin. Fort Lauderdale. Fort Myers. Fort Walton Beach. Gainesville. Jacksonville. Kissimmee. Lakeland. Melbourne. Miami. Naples. Ocala. Orlando. Panama City Beach. Pensacola. Port St. Lucie. Punta Gorda. St. Petersburg. Sanford. Sarasota. Sebring. Stuart. Tallahassee. Tampa. Vero Beach. West Palm Beach.

MULTI-REGION: Atlantic Coastal Ridge. Atlantic Coast. Bartram Trail. Big Bend. East Coast Greenway. Everglades National Park. Florida National Scenic Trail. Gulf Coast. Lake Wales Ridge. WATERWAYS: Indian River Lagoon. Intracoastal Waterway. Kissimmee River. St. Johns River. Withlacoochee River.

NORTHWEST FLORIDA: Altha. Apalachicola. Apalachicola National Forest. Big Bend Scenic Byway. Blackwater River State Forest. Blountstown. Bonifay. Bristol. Bruce. Cantonment. Cape San Blas. Carrabelle. Chattahoochee. Chipley. Crawfordville. DeFuniak Springs. Eastpoint. Ebro. Eglin Air Force Base. Freeport. Fountain. Gulf Breeze. Gulf Islands National Seashore. Holt. Madison. Marianna. Milton. Monticello. Mossy Head. Munson. Navarre. Navarre Beach. Newport. Niceville. Panacea. Panama City . Perdido Key. Ponce De Leon. Port St. Joe. Quincy. Santa Rosa Beach. Sopchoppy. South Walton. St. George Island. St. Marks. St. Marks NWR. Sumatra. Vernon. Wakulla. Wewahitchka. Woodville. WATERWAYS: Apalachicola River. Blackwater Bay. Blackwater River. Chipola River. Choctawhatchee Bay. Choctawhatchee River. Coastal Dune Lakes. Ochlockonee Bay. Perdido River. St. Marks River. Wacissa River. Wakulla River. Yellow River.

NORTH FLORIDA: Alachua. Amelia Island. Archer. Baldwin. Branford. Bronson. Bunnell. Callahan. Cedar Key. Chiefland. Crescent City. Cross City. Cross Creek. Dowling Park. Ellaville. Fanning Springs. Fernandina Beach. Flagler Beach. Fort White. Glen St. Mary. Green Cove Springs. Hawthorne. High Springs. Inglis. Jacksonville Beaches. Jacksonville Northshore. Jasper. Jennings. Keystone Heights. Lake Butler. Lake City. Live Oak.Macclenny. Mandarin. Mayo. Mayport. Micanopy. Middleburg. Old Town. Olustee. Orange Park. Osceola National Forest. Palatka. Palatka-Lake Butler Trail. Palm Coast. Palm Valley. Perry. Ponte Vedra. Rodman. Salt Springs. St. Augustine. Starke. Steinhatchee. Suwannee. Suwannee River Wilderness Trail. Suwannee Springs. Talbot Islands. Timucuan Preserve. Trenton. Waldo. Welaka. White Springs. Williston. Worthington Springs. Yankeetown. WATERWAYS: Santa Fe River. St. Marys River. Suwannee River. Tolomato River. Upper Withlacoochee River.

CENTRAL FLORIDA: Altamonte Springs. Apollo Beach. Apopka. Astatula. Astor. Auburndale. Bartow. Babson Park. Bayport. Belleview. Bithlo. Brandon. Brooksville. Bushnell. Canaveral National Seashore. Cassadaga. Christmas. Chuluota. Citrus Springs. Clearwater Beach. Clermont. Coast to Coast Trail. Cocoa. Cocoa Beach. Cross Florida Greenway. Crystal River. Dade City. De Leon Springs. DeBary. Deland. Deltona. Dunedin. Dunnellon. Edgewater. Enterprise. Eustis. Ferndale. Fort Meade. Frostproof. Geneva. Gibsonton. Haines City. Hernando. Hernando Beach. Holopaw. Homosassa. Inverness. Kenansville. Kissimmee. Lake Mary. Lake Wales. Largo. Leesburg. Lithia. Longwood. Lutz. Maitland. Malabar. McIntosh. Melbourne Beach. Merritt Island. Merritt Island NWR. Mims. Mount Dora. Narcoossee/Lake Nona. New Port Richey. New Smyrna Beach. Nobleton. Oak Hill. Oakland. Ocala National Forest. Ocklawaha. Ocoee. Oldsmar. Orange City. Ormond Beach. Osteen. Oviedo. Paisley. Palm Bay. Plant City. Poinciana. Polk City. Ponce Inlet. Port Orange. Ridge Manor. Riverview. Ruskin. Safety Harbor. Silver Springs. Sorrento. Spring Hill. St. Cloud. Tarpon Springs. Thonotosassa. Titusville . Umatilla. Viera. Walt Disney World. Weeki Wachee. Weirsdale. Wimauma. Windermere. Winter Garden. Winter Haven. Winter Park. Winter Springs. Withlacoochee State Forest. Withlacoochee State Trail. Yeehaw Junction. Zephyrhills. WATERWAYS: Alafia River. Halifax River. Hillsborough River. Lake Apopka. Little Manatee River. Ochlawaha River. Rainbow River. Tampa Bay. Wekiva River. Wekiva River Basin.

SOUTHWEST FLORIDA: Alva. Boca Grande. Cape Coral. Charlotte Harbor. Ding Darling NWR. Ellenton. Englewood. Estero. Immokalee. Marco Island. North Port. Osprey. Palma Sola. Palmetto. Pine Island. Port Charlotte. Sanibel Island. Venice. WATERWAYS: Caloosahatchee River. Manatee River. Myakka River. Pine Island Sound.

SOUTH FLORIDA: Arcadia. Basinger. Big Cypress National Preserve. Big Cypress Seminole Reservation. Big Cypress Swamp. Bowling Green. Clewiston. Everglades City. Indiantown. LaBelle. Lake Okeechobee Scenic Trail. Lake Placid. Lakeport. Moore Haven. Okeechobee. Ortona. Pahokee. Palmdale. Port Mayaca. South Bay. Wauchula. Zolfo Springs. WATERWAYS: Fisheating Creek. Lake Okeechobee. Peace River.

SOUTHEAST FLORIDA: Biscayne Bay. Biscayne National Park. Boca Raton. Boynton Beach. Coconut Creek. Coral Gables. Coral Springs. Davie. Delray Beach. Fellsmere. Flamingo. Fort Pierce. Hobe Sound. Hollywood. Homestead. Indrio. Jensen Beach. Juno Beach. Jupiter. Jupiter Farms. Key Biscayne. North Hutchison Island. Ocean to Lake Greenway. Palm Beach. Palm Beach Gardens. Pompano Beach. Redland. Sebastian. South Hutchinson Island. WATERWAYS: Florida Bay. St. Lucie River.

FLORIDA KEYS: Big Pine Key. Islamorada. Key Largo. Key West. Marathon. Overseas Heritage Trail.


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