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Paddling in the sun

Paddle to Dead Lakes

One of Florida’s most unusual and beautiful places to paddle, the Dead Lakes include 6,700 acres of mazy cypress and tupelo swamps in the Chipola River floodplain.

Article by John Keatley (June 16, 2014)
John and Kevin Mims heading down the creek
John and Kevin Mims heading down the creek

As Kevin and I began our paddle to Dead Lakes from the launch at Dead Lakes Park near Wewahitchka, Sandy and the rest of our group – sitting on board the pontoon boat – disappeared from sight.

Saying goodbye to the pontoon boat
Saying goodbye to the pontoon boat

Kevin and I were the only ones to brave, or crazy enough, to go off into the unknown under our own power. It was later in the day than either one of us would usually start a paddling trip.


Overview

Location: Wewahitchka
Launch: 30.136888, -85.199645
Address: 482 Gary Rowell Rd, Wewahitchka
Fees: Free
Restroom: Near the boat ramp
Land manager: Gulf County
Phone: 850-227-8693 or 850-229-7800

Open sunrise to sunset.

Bring your own kayak to Dead Lakes Park or arrange a trip with Off the Map Expeditions. This is one of Florida’s most unusual paddling destinations. Map and GPS or compass – or expert guide – suggested if you want to fully explore the lakes.

Paddling in the sun
Paddling in the sun

Directions


 
The park is off SR 71 just north of Wewahitchka on State Park Rd, south of Blountstown. The launch is at the south end of the park.

The Paddle

It wasn’t long before we were covering up to protect ourselves from the sun. Kevin in his Buff and baseball cap and me in my trusty Tilley.

I had never thought about wearing a Buff while kayaking. Mine is mostly reserved for cooler weather. We had already covered ourselves with sunblock, and I had rolled down my sleeves for all the sun protection I could get.

Dense cypress strands line the creek
Dense cypress strands line the creek

The paddle along West Arm Creek at this time of the day was without shade. The cypress, willow, and tupelo trees along the waters edge were so thick that they allowed no sight of any shoreline.

Massive cypress stumps are common
Massive cypress stumps are common

With the wind at our back, we enjoyed an easy paddle to Dead Lakes. Matt, our host from Off the Map Expeditions, said that he would come back and check on us in an hour or so. He believed that it would take that long before we reached the semi-open water.

Reaching Dead Lakes (Kevin Mims)
Reaching Dead Lakes (Kevin Mims)

Reaching Dead Lakes much quicker that any of us thought, we stuck to the left side of the “open” water. Again, we could see no shore, just a thick, impenetrable wall of trees with their trunks rising out of the dark water.

I had never paddled in an environment like the Dead Lakes before. It’s a swamp, but then again, it’s not. It’s where the Chipola River broadens as it draws close to the Apalachicola River, and other creeks join in.

A dam once held back the waters, which may explain all the dead cypress and snags in the water. Loggers took their toll, too.

Every direction looks like the other in the Dead Lakes
Every direction looks like the other in the Dead Lakes

The waterways were a maze in every direction. Stands of cypress trees became like small landless islands, in every direction for as far as we could see.

Old license plates and beer cans, nailed to the trunks of cypress trees, became our only channel markers. I normally do not carry a GPS in a kayak, but out there I wished that we had one along.

License plate as channel marker
Old license plate as a “channel marker”

After an hour of paddling between the stands of cypress trees, seeing only water, willows, tupelo trees, and a couple of turtles, we decided to turn around and see if we could remember our way back.

With a slight wind now in our faces, there would be no coasting. We would get that extra upper body workout. Off in the distance we heard the sound of a motor. Scanning the water, looking between the cypress islands, we searched for its source.

Open water and clusters of cypress on the Lakes
Open water and clusters of cypress on the Lakes

About a quarter-mile ahead of us, the pontoon boat appeared. It quickly went around a bend and was gone. We whistled, shouted, and waved our paddles. It was too late. They were too far away and the rumble of the outboard had drowned out our calls.

Our pace quickened as we watched the trees for the homemade channel markers. Out here on the Dead Lakes, everything begins to look alike. Sometimes it is hard to stay in that main channel.

More than once, we took a short cut between the cypress trunks and knees to find a different way back to the channel.

Finding our way back towards Dead Lakes Park
Finding our way back towards Dead Lakes Park

We both breathed sighs of relief as we found our way back into West Arm Creek. It’s hard to judge distance when everything looks the same. More than once we thought the dock was just around that next bend. It wasn’t.

Matt returned with the pontoon boat to find us. He wanted to get us back to shore in time for our tupelo honey tasting, the next stop on our trip.

It's tricky climbing aboard! (Kevin Mims)
It’s tricky climbing aboard! (Kevin Mims)

With the kayaks tied up and skiing behind the boat. Kevin and I enjoyed the shade, camaraderie, and the effortless movement. Our ride was maybe a quarter of a mile back to the dock. We had almost made it back under our own power.

Towing the kayaks
Towing the kayaks. I thought they’d make interesting water skis.

Explore More!

Learn more about Dead Lakes Park

Dead Lakes Recreation Area Dead Lakes Park Centered around a mysterious 6,700-acre swamp forest with open waters and shrunken bald cypresses, Dead Lakes Park provides paddlers, hikers, and campers with a place to play.

Slideshow

See our photos of Dead Lakes


Nearby Adventures

Paved path within a canopied shady tunnel Blountstown Greenway Connecting neighborhoods, parks, and services within a historic Apalachicola River town, the 3.4 mile linear Blountstown Greenway incorporates a segment of the Florida Trail.
Large marble monument in forest Constitution Convention Museum State Park Learn about frontier days on the Forgotten Coast at this small museum that commemorates the steps taken to establish Florida statehood.
Coastal scrub at Salinas Park Salinas Park With a boardwalk over a beautiful coastal scrub to a beach on the sparkling waters of the Gulf of Mexico, Salinas Park provides a picnic grove in a pine forest.
Bright white sand dunes along emerald shores St. Joseph Peninsula State Park Protecting fragile coastal habitats on the tip of Cape San Blas as it curves around to shelter St. Joseph Bay, T.H. Stone Memorial St. Joseph Peninsula State Park provides a sweep of beachfront on both bay and Gulf to enjoy.

Official Website

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John Keatley
John Keatley
A native Floridian from the Space Coast, John Keatley grew up on the water and in the woods. Co-author of a dozen guidebooks, he's an avid cyclist and paddler, sometimes covering those topics jointly with his wife Sandra Friend.
John Keatley
Latest posts by John Keatley (see all)
  • Riding the East Coast Greenway to Stuart - July 14, 2022
  • Pioneer Paddling Trail - May 11, 2022
  • Launching Into Paddleboarding - October 17, 2021
Category: Articles, Northwest Florida, Paddling, Paddling, Places, WaterwaysTag: Apalachicola River, Blountstown, Chipola River, Port St. Joe, Wewahitchka

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